Manual Service Sony MiniDisc MZ-NF810CK
http://bebasupload.com/wu6env46jku5/sony_MZ-NF810_service_manual.pdf.html
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Monday, November 30, 2009
Manual Service Sony MiniDisc MZ-NF810CK
Manual Service Sony MiniDisc MZ-NF810CK
http://bebasupload.com/wu6env46jku5/sony_MZ-NF810_service_manual.pdf.html
Manual Service Suzuki GSF 650
Manual Service Suzuki GSF 650
This manual contains an introductory description on the SUZUKI GSF650/S and procedures for its inspection/service and overhaul of its main components. Other information considered as generally known is not included.
Read the GENERAL INFORMATION section to familiarize yourself with the motorcycle and its maintenance. Use this section as well as other sections to use as a guide for proper inspection and service.
This manual will help you know the motorcycle better so that you can assure your customers of fast and reliable service.
http://bebasupload.com/zn6wha2erv6l/Suzuki_GSF_650-650_S_K5_%2705_-_Service_Manual.rar.html
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Friday, November 27, 2009
Thursday, November 26, 2009
Suzuki TL1000R Service Manual
1997, 1998, 1999, 2000, 2001 & 2002
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The Suzuki TL1000R was originally introduced to the motorcycling press at the Eastern Creek racing facility in Australia back in March of this year. The preliminary impressions of the bike were promising but, due to a few problems encountered in manufacturing the motorcycle, it took until Mid-June for it to reach our shores ready for the show room. We nabbed one from the nice folk at Suzuki, we put our butts on the seat, and we rode it. Power Plant
As everyone knows, the TL1000R engine is a slightly modified version of the 1000cc, 90 degree, twin cam, four valve, V-twin that first appeared in last year's TL1000S. The modifications include throttle bodies with dual stage injection and two injectors per cylinder, a redesigned air box for improved flow, cams with higher lift and longer duration, and a high-volume exhaust, to name just a few. Taking a look inside the big twin, we find forged pistons for increased durability over cast ones. Forged pistons also have the advantage of allowing for thinner support walls for the wrist pins and the removal of nearly all of the side skirts of the pistons. The rods connecting the pistons to the crank are carburized for higher surface hardness, providing for light weight and high strength. Light weight is doubly important on moving parts because the weight savings is multiplied by the subsequently reduced inertia. It's sort of like that movie with the giant cannon they were dragging across Europe and how, although it was difficult to drag the thing up the mountain side, it was even more difficult to control its speed on the way down. I can never remember the name of that movie.
So concerned were the engineers about throwing away horsepower when designing the TL1000R that even the splashing of oil in the crankcase is controlled to reduce power loss. To reduce agitation, the side case that carries the return oil from the heads has a fin cast into it to deflect the oil away from the crankshaft.
To ensure proper cooling while also maintaining the narrow profile of a V-twin, the TL-R's radiator was split in two and mounted piggyback - one above the other. The two radiators are plumbed parallel with the upper radiator carrying two fans. And as if that weren't enough, the bike also has a watercooled oil cooler. Horsepower means heat, and heat means melting engines, so this thing is way cooled.
Since this is a large twin made for sport riding, the clutch has a back torque limiter to help reduce rear wheel hop on those less-than-tidy downshifts, when engine speed isn't quite matched with wheel speed. None of us would ever need such a thing but still, it's nice when companies put in anti-idiot devices to help make us look smart. Just like Suzuki's GSX-R1100, the clutch is hydraulically actuated and the feel is much better than some of the other hydraulic systems on the market. The TL1000R's electronic fuel injection is about the smartest system ever to come on a bike from the Pacific Rim. Each of the four injectors is controlled by two independent maps from the ECM (electronic control module), which adds up to a total of eight separate maps.
Note the giant diameter of the steerig head with its external locking collar to allow for altering the bike's rake and trail. The tach features a digital heat gauge that also shows malfunction codes should you have one.
To ensure that the efi has complete knowledge of the bodily functions of the bike, the system monitors crankshaft position, camshaft position, water temperature, intake air temperature, throttle position, intake manifold pressure, and atmospheric pressure. If judging from this information it thinks you're too much of a wuss, it won't allow you to close the throttle. Alright, that last one's a lie. Actually, with this information, the dual stage efi system is able to compensate for altitude, cold starting, ambient temperature, and speed-induced ram air changes. If the bike's diagnostics system detects a malfunction, it displays a code number on the gauge's liquid crystal display located on the white-faced tachometer. The fuel injection system works sort of like the classic four barrel carburetors with only the primary injectors spraying fuel from low to middle rpms for economy and efficiency, and the secondary injectors kicking in at high rpms for full throttle acceleration. Which brings us to the obvious question - what about the secondary injectors working at full throttle at low rpms, huh? That'd be cool. "Yaaaaaaaah. . . !" is the sound of me going over backwards. If the performance of the TL1000R isn't good enough for you, you might want to send piles of your disposable income to Yoshimura to purchase some of the really groovy race kit stuff like aluminum radiators, dry clutch, race pistons, hot cams, and so on and so on. Or you could buy a Porsche Boxter or put your kid through college. Either way, don't call Yoshimura looking for this stuff unless money is no object to you. The radiators alone will set you back about $13,000.
As much for function as for looks, the nose of the TL1000R is the raddest, longest, farthest forward reaching fairing of those found on any sport bike.
Chassis
Where the TL1000R is the most different from the TL1000S is in its chassis. The aluminum, oval, trellis frame has been replaced with a twin-spar box section unit that incorporates adjustability for the steering head and swing arm pivot. The TL-R has a most humongous cast steering head to provide room for the race kit parts needed to alter the bike's rake and trail. The rake or trail is changed by installing inserts - that carry both upper and lower bearing races - within the steering head. If you pester the guys at Yoshimura you might be able to buy yourself these parts, too. But be forewarned, if you don't know what changes cause what results, don't do it. The Suzuki engineers delivered the bikes to the showroom with the steering they thought best for you, and it's safe to assume that they're not a bunch of idiots.
You can get yourself into the same trouble with the swingarm, too. Little plates are available to move the swing arm pivot around within the cast aluminum mounting plates but again, don't play with it if you don't fully understand what you're doing.
The exhaust system is tight against the machine and points inward to maintain the lowest coefficient of drag possible.
Any owner of a TL1000R can have enough fun just by playing with the fully adjustable suspension at each end. A screwdriver and one wrench are all it takes. Forks and rear shock include compression and rebound adjustments as well as preload. The rear radial damper offers the added feature of an automatic temperature compensating system that provides unchanged damping as the shock oil becomes hot and thinner. If you're absolutely determined to drive yourself nuts, you could order up linkages for the separately mounted damper and shock and start creating combinations of spring and damping ratios that even a factory racing team would have difficulty sorting out. Again, the adjustments provided on the machine are quite enough. Have fun with those and don't look for aditional ways to create a monster out of a very nice motorcycle.
As stated earlier, the design of the chassis was intended to maintain the smallest possible profile allowing the TL1000R to have wind-cheating performance. To this end, the radiators are stacked and the battery has been squeezed into the left side of the fairing next to the front cylinder head and is accessible through a small door. Also to provide a low coefficient of drag, the exhaust canisters have been tucked in tightly to the bike, and the front nose of the fairing juts out way past the front axle like no other sportbike since the days of superbike "dust bin" fairings of the '60s. It makes what is actually a very short bike look longer than a '74 Ducati 750SS which was often referred to as "long legs". This thing actually has short legs, it just wears a long dress.
The bike comes with a rear tail section cover and a rear seat pad, one of which has to stay at home. Under the cover - or pad - is enough room to carry two quart bottles of refreshments and some bread and cheese. Or a sandwich, a handgun, a yo-yo, and a 5 x 7 framed picture of your loved ones. Or a large bottle of baby oil, four feet of rubber hose, a small paddle, and a vibrator. Or. . . well you get the picture.
Riding
The TL-R, like Suzuki's GSX-Rs, is designed as a take-no-prisoners sportbike and its ergonomics are exactly that. The bars are low, the pegs are high, and the riding position is full race radical. As usual, around town it's a little tiring, but in the twisties it's just right. The bike we tested had been used by Kevin Schwantz for a Suzuki-sponsored event and it featured a fabric-covered gel seat from Suzuki's accessory catalog. The seat at first felt as hard as any other sportbike pad, but the weird thing about it was that, after an hour in the saddle, the butt pain my skinny ass usually suffers was absent. This was better than having a soft seat because the stiffness of the pad allows complete rider movement for fast riding on tight roads yet the magic inside the seat nicely relieves cheek fatigue.
The other less than wonderful feature about the TL-R in around town riding is that it doesn't like low revs at all. It chugs below 1,500 rpms. Because of this the rider has to sort of slip the clutch every time the bike is launched from a stop. You get used to it, but considering that so many bikes just launch off idle, it seems unnecessary.
Kevin sat here. Suzuki provided us with a bike that had been ridden by Kevin Schwantz during the Rock & Roll Suzuki Marathon in San Diego. The embossed tank bra is also a Suzuki option.
Although the first reports from the bike's intro stated that the TL-R was down on mid-range, it's doubtful any street rider will ever complain of that. Additionally, with remapping and installation of a pipe, that problem can be cured instantly. The bike we tested was maybe down a tad on low end but the mid-range was plenty healthy, thank you. For great wheelies, all you have to do is run the bike up to 5,000 rpms in first gear, whack the throttle off and then back on hard, and the front's coming up. We suspect that since its intro this bike's been re-brained. Either way, once you reach the higher end of the rev range the bike has a big hit of power usually reserved for multi-cylindered machines. And the power builds all the way to the top with only a slightly noticeable drop off before you reach the rev limiter.
The nicest thing about the TL1000R's power is that it is available instantly. And I mean instantly. The efi delivers with every little movement of the throttle. And it delivers without the hesitation that we've all grown used to from CV carburetors. The GSX-R 750's efi was a bit of a nag coming from full off throttle, because the machine would lurch. The efi of the TL-R is absolutely spot on. No lurching, no stumbling, no waiting, no nothing but smooth climbing power. Suzuki got this system right. It's such a nice system that some of you will be a little surprised by how well it works. It'll get you to loosen your death grip on the bars, because every little bump you hit and transmit to the bars can jiggle the throttle. Lighten up and enjoy.
On the curvy country roads the bike is in its element, and we soon realized that our suspension set-up needed a little attention. The bike was way stiff which might have been due to that Schwantz guy who'd ridden the bike before us. What's he know about setting up a bike anyway? For squids, that is.
We softened both ends a tad with the exception of dialing in a little more rebound up front. This pleased us although it pleased me more than Blake, who carries a bit more weight in his boots than I do. With our changed settings, the bike was much more compliant over sharp bumps, held its line better through fast sweepers, and gave great feedback from the rear end when hard on the gas out of turns. And if that wasn't good enough, we had plenty of other directions to adjust the suspension to.
Being a twin the TL1000R has loads more mid-range than any four banger in its class, and out on roads that are twistie enough it is sometimes most fun to leave the bike in one gear and just rip up and down through the rev range. Regarding top end, we haven't yet been able to do a top speed test of the bike but we're certain it'll do well beyond an honest to God 160 mph. High speed is where its shape really comes into play.
The first thing we'd recommend is removing the steering damper and replacing it with an adjustable unit. It's a good guess that the damper was put on the bike just to diminish any chance of easily excitable journalists cursing the motorcycle like some did with the TL1000S. An adjustable damper has you covered on both ends because it'll be there if you think you need it, yet you can tune it out for around town cruising. It might also be that the bike doesn't need a damper at all. But you're on your own if you tread there.
It was somewhat ambiently hot during our test, but we were still surprised at the amount of engine heat that reached the rider. Not since riding Triumph's T500s have we found a bike that heated us up like the TL-R. Don't get me wrong, it's noticeable but it's not quite the convection oven of the Triumph. On cool days I'd be the first to complain about why don't bikes produce more heat for the rider.
All told, the TL1000R is a clear standout among its rival. It has a look all its own - I'll take mine in yellow, please - it has one of the two raddest chassis available, it has a honk'n big twin engine, it has efi, and it has all the latest race-bred goodies. And it's all in a package that's a blast to ride. Outside of the Ducati 916, the TL1000R is the best bad ass sporting twin.
Suzuki TL1000S Service Manual
1997, 1998, 1999, 2000, 2001 & 2002
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It's a tough world out there in sporty bikeland. In the time it takes for a rumor or spy shot of a supposedly quicker and faster future model to get published, your latest and greatest can quickly become relegated to yesterday's news. Even if its capabilities are right up there with the best, all it takes is the introduction of a flashier model with the promise of superior performance to push the previous bike into the shadows. Especially if the hotter model comes from the same company and is trumpeted as a "racier" version of the original.
Such is the case with Suzuki's TL1000S. The all-new V-twin sportbike turned heads in '97 with its 113-horsepower, fuel-injected powerplant and aluminum trellis-style chassis. And its outright performance was a match for the competition at anything up to a ten-tenths, racetrack-scratching pace. Twin-cylinder sportbikes were all the rage and many of us were expecting the dawn of a new era in motorcycling, with narrow, lithe V-twins Replacing the comparatively bulky in-line four as the dominant sporting-engine configuration.
1999 Suzuki Tl1000s Right
Click to View Gallery
Overlooked in all the excitement was a sportbike that was solid and capable in all respects. Sure, the R-model boasted a twin-spar aluminum frame and a hot-rodded motor-but it was also wider in the waistline and picked up 20-odd pounds in the transition. Was all this really worth an extra $500?
But once news of the TL-S's racier brother-the TL1000R-began to surface, everyone soon forgot about the S-model. With visions of a world-beating, V-twin sportbike dancing in their heads, many riders decided to stand pat and wait until the R-model's release. A somewhat sensationalized claim of a handling problem over in Europe, which forced a worldwide recall of S-models for retrofitment of a steering damper in order to quell a reputed tankslapping tendency (we never encountered this problem), definitely tainted the TL1000S as well.
The TL1000S's larger front fairing offers much better wind protection than the R-model's aerodynamically slanted windscreen. The mirrors offer a decent rearward view.
Not all riders like to be accordioned into a racer crouch, and the TL-S's ergonomics straddles the line between hard-core sport and sport-touring quite nicely. Without all the aerodynamic concerns that come with building an all-out sportbike, the S-model's fairing provides decent wind protection, unlike the TL-R's radically canted windscreen. And with electronic fuel injection, cold morning starts are a breeze. Simply nudge the bar-mounted "fast-idle" lever (it can't really be called a choke lever since it doesn't enrich the fuel mixture), warm it up for about 30 seconds and you're on your way.
One of our biggest gripes with the '97 TL1000S was its dismal fuel economy. We consistently averaged approximately 30 mpg during hard riding and were forced to refuel every 120 miles lest we end up pushing. Strangely, Suzuki isn't claiming any changes to the fuel-delivery maps on the '99 TL-S, yet we averaged about 33 mpg this time around. While this is not a huge improvement, it is a gain nonetheless. We did notice an increased tendency to surge a little at light-throttle (cruise) settings around town, which may be indicative of leaner fuel-mixture mapping.
Riding the TL-S on city streets reveals two major changes since we last tested this model. One is a slight alteration to the clutch's back-torque limiting ramp, and the addition of a sixth clutch spring. This significantly smooths out the TL's previous grabbiness during aggressive launches. The other is an unfortunate side effect of the steering damper. Although it may provide additional stability during spirited canyon sorties, the nonadjustable damper also causes the steering to be somewhat truckish at slower speeds. Maneuvering through traffic and tight confines is more of a chore. And while it's not lethargic by any means, steering response at higher velocities has been slowed, requiring a bit more muscle for those quick-flick turn entries.
One of the changes for '99 to the TL1000S is tighter clearance on the main bearing journals, reportedly to quell mechanical noises that are concealed by bodywork on the TL1000R.
Get the TL out among those undulating environs where quick turn entries are the name of the game, however, and its rider-friendly chassis and strong motor have a chance to shine. Although the steering requires more effort to initiate a turn, its overall manners are dead neutral at all lean angles with the stock Metzeler rubber. Ground clearance is abundant, so if you're scraping the nonfeeler-equipped pegs you're probably riding a bit too fast for the street.
The TL-S's 996cc, V-twin mill reminds us why we liked its overall performance traits back in '97. While it may not quite pack the midrange torque of some of its competition, the motor is clearly superior to the R-model in this category; this, combined with its revvy nature and strong top-end punch, makes wheelie-prone corner exits a breeze. And in cornering scenarios where most in-line four sportbikes are trying to spin the rear tire, the TL's smooth V-twin power pulses let the rider concentrate on subjects other than traction control. The abrupt on/off throttle transition of the Suzuki's fuel injection is still present though, so it's best to get your drive started as early and smoothly as possible.
Although not as impressive-looking as the TL1000R's twin-spar chassis, the TL1000S's trellis-style, oval-tube aluminum frame is more than up to the task of offering responsive handling while keeping things under control.
It may not look as stout as the TL-R's twin-spar chassis but the S-model's trellis-style oval-tube, frame is more than up to the task handlingwise, and it's far slimmer between the rider's knees than the R-model's rather bulky feel. Along with the aforementioned hospitable steering manners, the TL1000S's suspension does a very good job of absorbing the majority of pavement irregularities you're likely to encounter. Only at a very aggressive pace do any shortcomings appear: mainly softish spring rates that let the suspension nearly bottom-out in midcorner bumps, overpowering the rebound damping and causing the TL to weave a bit in protest. Nothing serious, but it does get your attention.
In this technological age of flash and speed, it's all too easy to overlook the good sportbikes that don't make a spectacle of themselves. The Suzuki TL1000S has always been a solid performer. It may have been forced to live in the TL-R's shadow but for those looking for a useful alternative to the all-out V-twin sportbikes currently making the rounds, at $8999, the Suzuki TL1000S remains a sensible choice.
The Suzuki TL1000S's suspension takes a fair bit of dialing in before you can get things right, and even then it leaves a little to be desired when the going gets rough. Jim Lindemann has been marketing a Penske replacement shock kit for the past year or so, and after experiencing his suspension magic on various bikes in the past, we decided to give it a try. The Lindemann kit replaces the stock rotary damper unit with a conventional, fully adjustable Penske shock absorber, sans spring. One of our complaints with the TL-S was overly soft spring rates; Lindemann has provided a choice of two springs with higher rates to replace the spring on the stocker's separate unit.
Replacing the spring was a chore, however. The spring unit is packed tightly into the right side, and requires some maneuvering to remove. You then need to grind off the peened-over shock shaft inside the clevis in order to loosen the bottom locknut so the accessory spring can be installed. (Or you can simply send your spring unit to Lindemann and have it converted for a small fee.) Once all the components are mounted (including the frame support block that fits in the space previously occupied by the rotary damper), dial-in is a snap. You'll need a very small Allen wrench to make rebound-damping adjustments on the shock, however.
Overall suspension action with the Lindemann kit was greatly improved. Damping was much more consistent across the suspension stroke, with a more supple movement over smaller ripples, while large midcorner bumps failed to upset the chassis. As a result, traction in the gnarlier corners was greatly enhanced, increasing corner speeds.
At $975, the Lindemann kit isn't exactly cheap, but for those looking to improve their TL1000S's handling to a point far beyond the stocker's capabilities, it's a sound investment.
Suzuki TL1000S Service ManualSuch is the case with Suzuki's TL1000S. The all-new V-twin sportbike turned heads in '97 with its 113-horsepower, fuel-injected powerplant and aluminum trellis-style chassis. And its outright performance was a match for the competition at anything up to a ten-tenths, racetrack-scratching pace. Twin-cylinder sportbikes were all the rage and many of us were expecting the dawn of a new era in motorcycling, with narrow, lithe V-twins Replacing the comparatively bulky in-line four as the dominant sporting-engine configuration.
1999 Suzuki Tl1000s Right
Click to View Gallery
Overlooked in all the excitement was a sportbike that was solid and capable in all respects. Sure, the R-model boasted a twin-spar aluminum frame and a hot-rodded motor-but it was also wider in the waistline and picked up 20-odd pounds in the transition. Was all this really worth an extra $500?
But once news of the TL-S's racier brother-the TL1000R-began to surface, everyone soon forgot about the S-model. With visions of a world-beating, V-twin sportbike dancing in their heads, many riders decided to stand pat and wait until the R-model's release. A somewhat sensationalized claim of a handling problem over in Europe, which forced a worldwide recall of S-models for retrofitment of a steering damper in order to quell a reputed tankslapping tendency (we never encountered this problem), definitely tainted the TL1000S as well.
The TL1000S's larger front fairing offers much better wind protection than the R-model's aerodynamically slanted windscreen. The mirrors offer a decent rearward view.
Not all riders like to be accordioned into a racer crouch, and the TL-S's ergonomics straddles the line between hard-core sport and sport-touring quite nicely. Without all the aerodynamic concerns that come with building an all-out sportbike, the S-model's fairing provides decent wind protection, unlike the TL-R's radically canted windscreen. And with electronic fuel injection, cold morning starts are a breeze. Simply nudge the bar-mounted "fast-idle" lever (it can't really be called a choke lever since it doesn't enrich the fuel mixture), warm it up for about 30 seconds and you're on your way.
One of our biggest gripes with the '97 TL1000S was its dismal fuel economy. We consistently averaged approximately 30 mpg during hard riding and were forced to refuel every 120 miles lest we end up pushing. Strangely, Suzuki isn't claiming any changes to the fuel-delivery maps on the '99 TL-S, yet we averaged about 33 mpg this time around. While this is not a huge improvement, it is a gain nonetheless. We did notice an increased tendency to surge a little at light-throttle (cruise) settings around town, which may be indicative of leaner fuel-mixture mapping.
Riding the TL-S on city streets reveals two major changes since we last tested this model. One is a slight alteration to the clutch's back-torque limiting ramp, and the addition of a sixth clutch spring. This significantly smooths out the TL's previous grabbiness during aggressive launches. The other is an unfortunate side effect of the steering damper. Although it may provide additional stability during spirited canyon sorties, the nonadjustable damper also causes the steering to be somewhat truckish at slower speeds. Maneuvering through traffic and tight confines is more of a chore. And while it's not lethargic by any means, steering response at higher velocities has been slowed, requiring a bit more muscle for those quick-flick turn entries.
One of the changes for '99 to the TL1000S is tighter clearance on the main bearing journals, reportedly to quell mechanical noises that are concealed by bodywork on the TL1000R.
Get the TL out among those undulating environs where quick turn entries are the name of the game, however, and its rider-friendly chassis and strong motor have a chance to shine. Although the steering requires more effort to initiate a turn, its overall manners are dead neutral at all lean angles with the stock Metzeler rubber. Ground clearance is abundant, so if you're scraping the nonfeeler-equipped pegs you're probably riding a bit too fast for the street.
The TL-S's 996cc, V-twin mill reminds us why we liked its overall performance traits back in '97. While it may not quite pack the midrange torque of some of its competition, the motor is clearly superior to the R-model in this category; this, combined with its revvy nature and strong top-end punch, makes wheelie-prone corner exits a breeze. And in cornering scenarios where most in-line four sportbikes are trying to spin the rear tire, the TL's smooth V-twin power pulses let the rider concentrate on subjects other than traction control. The abrupt on/off throttle transition of the Suzuki's fuel injection is still present though, so it's best to get your drive started as early and smoothly as possible.
Although not as impressive-looking as the TL1000R's twin-spar chassis, the TL1000S's trellis-style, oval-tube aluminum frame is more than up to the task of offering responsive handling while keeping things under control.
It may not look as stout as the TL-R's twin-spar chassis but the S-model's trellis-style oval-tube, frame is more than up to the task handlingwise, and it's far slimmer between the rider's knees than the R-model's rather bulky feel. Along with the aforementioned hospitable steering manners, the TL1000S's suspension does a very good job of absorbing the majority of pavement irregularities you're likely to encounter. Only at a very aggressive pace do any shortcomings appear: mainly softish spring rates that let the suspension nearly bottom-out in midcorner bumps, overpowering the rebound damping and causing the TL to weave a bit in protest. Nothing serious, but it does get your attention.
In this technological age of flash and speed, it's all too easy to overlook the good sportbikes that don't make a spectacle of themselves. The Suzuki TL1000S has always been a solid performer. It may have been forced to live in the TL-R's shadow but for those looking for a useful alternative to the all-out V-twin sportbikes currently making the rounds, at $8999, the Suzuki TL1000S remains a sensible choice.
The Suzuki TL1000S's suspension takes a fair bit of dialing in before you can get things right, and even then it leaves a little to be desired when the going gets rough. Jim Lindemann has been marketing a Penske replacement shock kit for the past year or so, and after experiencing his suspension magic on various bikes in the past, we decided to give it a try. The Lindemann kit replaces the stock rotary damper unit with a conventional, fully adjustable Penske shock absorber, sans spring. One of our complaints with the TL-S was overly soft spring rates; Lindemann has provided a choice of two springs with higher rates to replace the spring on the stocker's separate unit.
Replacing the spring was a chore, however. The spring unit is packed tightly into the right side, and requires some maneuvering to remove. You then need to grind off the peened-over shock shaft inside the clevis in order to loosen the bottom locknut so the accessory spring can be installed. (Or you can simply send your spring unit to Lindemann and have it converted for a small fee.) Once all the components are mounted (including the frame support block that fits in the space previously occupied by the rotary damper), dial-in is a snap. You'll need a very small Allen wrench to make rebound-damping adjustments on the shock, however.
Overall suspension action with the Lindemann kit was greatly improved. Damping was much more consistent across the suspension stroke, with a more supple movement over smaller ripples, while large midcorner bumps failed to upset the chassis. As a result, traction in the gnarlier corners was greatly enhanced, increasing corner speeds.
At $975, the Lindemann kit isn't exactly cheap, but for those looking to improve their TL1000S's handling to a point far beyond the stocker's capabilities, it's a sound investment.
Wednesday, November 25, 2009
Manual Service Samsung SGH F480
Manual Service Samsung SGH-F480
http://bebasupload.com/fs3421aqwyw5/Samsung_SGH-F480_service_manual.pdf.html
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Manual Service HP Notebook Series
Manual Service HP Notebook
http://bebasupload.com/adyldyleyjff/HP_-Service_Manual_-_Notebook_-_NOTEBOOK_series.pdf.html
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Kawasaki ER-5 Workshop Manual
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Kawasaki ER-5 workshop Manual
Describe an perfect introduction level motorcycle and you've described the Kawasaki ER-5.
Designed for European riders, the ER-5 wraps a responsive 8-valve, 498cc twin cylinder water-cooled engine in a tubular chassis for surefooted handling and dependable performance.
The machine that literally thousands of people learn to ride on, the ER-5 has many practical features that riders can rely on. The accurate fuel gauge is one along with the optional lower seat for shorter riders.
Braking is provided by a powerful dual piston front disc unit and, at the rear, a established and dependable foot operated drum brake.
Add a stylish and simple stainless steel exhaust system and centre stand as well as side stand and it's easy to see why an ER-5 is first choice for a variety of riders from learners and those new to motorcycling to couriers and commuters.
Look hard at Honda's CB500 and the Suzuki GS500, the Kawaski's direct competitors, too. While the ER-5 chassis is basic, with twin shocks and disc/drum brakes, the parallel twin engine isn't.
There's less power (50PS) than the similar GPZ500S, but reduced compression and raised flywheel weight make the engine more tractable at lower rpm. However, do not buy an ER-5 - or any other 500cc parallel twin - unless you get off on changing gear a lot. Do buy if you're vertically challenged, as the 17in wheels make the twin low, and it's also pleasantly light at 174kg dry.
Previous ER-5 owners will include older novices, dispatch riders and riding schools. Engine bars can be the giveaway, particularly if they've been scraped. Leave those bikes alone. Aim to buy from the sizeable number of older riders for whom a smooth parallel twin was their replacement for a long-dead British Vibrator.
You'll be able to spot a good honest bike a mile off as the ER-5's finish goes off badly if it's neglected. Engine noise, oil dribbles or smoking also mean that you should make an excuse and leave. Fancy the protection of a screen? Think CB500S, GPZ500S or fit one. There really are lots of ER-5s to choose from, so be choosy.
Email manuals@live.co.uk if any problems with downloadDesigned for European riders, the ER-5 wraps a responsive 8-valve, 498cc twin cylinder water-cooled engine in a tubular chassis for surefooted handling and dependable performance.
The machine that literally thousands of people learn to ride on, the ER-5 has many practical features that riders can rely on. The accurate fuel gauge is one along with the optional lower seat for shorter riders.
Braking is provided by a powerful dual piston front disc unit and, at the rear, a established and dependable foot operated drum brake.
Add a stylish and simple stainless steel exhaust system and centre stand as well as side stand and it's easy to see why an ER-5 is first choice for a variety of riders from learners and those new to motorcycling to couriers and commuters.
Look hard at Honda's CB500 and the Suzuki GS500, the Kawaski's direct competitors, too. While the ER-5 chassis is basic, with twin shocks and disc/drum brakes, the parallel twin engine isn't.
There's less power (50PS) than the similar GPZ500S, but reduced compression and raised flywheel weight make the engine more tractable at lower rpm. However, do not buy an ER-5 - or any other 500cc parallel twin - unless you get off on changing gear a lot. Do buy if you're vertically challenged, as the 17in wheels make the twin low, and it's also pleasantly light at 174kg dry.
Previous ER-5 owners will include older novices, dispatch riders and riding schools. Engine bars can be the giveaway, particularly if they've been scraped. Leave those bikes alone. Aim to buy from the sizeable number of older riders for whom a smooth parallel twin was their replacement for a long-dead British Vibrator.
You'll be able to spot a good honest bike a mile off as the ER-5's finish goes off badly if it's neglected. Engine noise, oil dribbles or smoking also mean that you should make an excuse and leave. Fancy the protection of a screen? Think CB500S, GPZ500S or fit one. There really are lots of ER-5s to choose from, so be choosy.
Tuesday, November 24, 2009
Manual Service Nokia 5210
Manual Service Guide
Nokia 5210
http://bebasupload.com/53qc85edpjzx/5210_nsm5.pdf.html
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Manual Nokia N96
Manual Guide Nokia N96 Level 1 & 2
http://bebasupload.com/p9ws5hh58f4r/N96_Level_1_2_by_killanny.rar.html
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Monday, November 23, 2009
Polaris Predator ATV Service Manual
2003
PREDATOR 500
AND
TROY LEE LIMITED EDITION
AND
TROY LEE LIMITED EDITION
With a great combination of handling, power and suspension, we anticipate the 2003 Polaris Predator 500 will quickly race to the top of the food-chain.
On the dawn of the second day of the Polaris ATV 2003 Press Introduction, I was sitting half asleep wishing I had gone to bed earlier, when I heard the faint noise of an ATV approaching. As it came through the doors of the exhibition hall, I paused and thought it was a Cannondale, then I noticed it did indeed say "Polaris" on the front!
On first impression I was slightly confused. Then the Mountain Dew kicked in (Breakfast of Champions) and I woke up and looked more closely at the new model. I liked what I saw. I felt like a kid on Christmas morning, waiting for mom and dad to get up so I could see what Santa had brought. Mom and dad didn't wake up for a long time, so I sat there squirming in my seat itching to go for a ride on the new toy...
The 2003 Predator 500
Polaris engineers outlined the performance goals as three-fold: Power, Suspension and Handling
Goal 1: Quality Handling
To develop a sport quad that could compete against the best - and win - Polaris engineers knew they had to develop a new, superior steering system. They wanted to eliminate some of the short-comings of traditional systems that required riders to compromise and ease off the throttle when cornering hard. They wanted to eliminate the effects of bump steer, which diminish an ATV's handling.
10" of travel...
and no bump steer
The solution they developed is the PRO (Polaris Rider Optimized) Steering system. It utilizes a unique, computer-designed steering linkage that produces a strategic new pivot point for the steering arms. The PRO Steering system virtually eliminates bump steer and provides the rider with an optimized steering ratio.
The Predator rider enjoys an easier steering effort, outstanding control, a tight turning radius, and the ability to brake hard in corners without having the nose dive and disrupt the handling. The Predator handles precisely in corners, on whoops, on dunes, and on race tracks. It handles so well that a rider can utilize the engine's awesome power rather than having to compromise.
A full skid plate is standard
How about the shape of that seat?
The Predator has anti-dive suspension geometry, not like some competitors dive-when-braking feel. When a rider on a competitive quad brakes in a corner, the nose is pulled down, and the inside rear wheel may lift. This forces the rider to back off the throttle. The Predator's unique, patent-pending suspension geometry transfers braking forces through the A-arm, its chassis stays level, and its wheels stay on the ground. The Predator rider gets to stay on the gas - and come off the corner in the lead.
Goal 2: Fast Power
The Predator 500 delivers wickedly quick throttle response and outstanding acceleration, exactly what a rider needs to be the first from Point A to Point B on the racetrack. The power source is a new, liquid-cooled, high-performance Polaris 500 engine. This high-revving, 4-valve 4-stroke engine has a double overhead cam and a pulse fuel pump that delivers consistent fuel flow even on rough terrain. The engine has a 42mm Mikuni carburetor and tuned 2-into-1 header pipes.
How about a matching Predator for the younger member of the family?
Engine placement to provide a low center of gravity
This dry sump engine is positioned deep in the light-yet-strong, computer-designed Predator frame to create and maintain a low center of gravity.
Goal 3: Responsive Suspension
The Predator's suspension design and components provide a rider with outstanding adjustability and a smooth ride, and it complements the PRO Steering system. The twin A-arm front suspension has dual Fox® rebuildable gas shocks with adjustable spring preload and 10" of travel. The non-linkage rear suspension is simpler and lighter than that of competitive quads. The rear Fox® shock is strategically positioned and is the most adjustable shock available in a stock ATV. A Predator rider has the opportunity to adjust the spring preload, rebound, and compression damping. Plus, that rider enjoys 11" of rear travel.
Polished Douglas rims with rolled edges
Premium Equipment is Standard
There's nothing "standard" about the exceptional Predator's components. Its polished Douglas® aluminum rims have rolled-edge construction for outstanding strength and durability. The rims are fitted with Maxxis Razr PR (Polaris Racing) tires that are designed and built to optimize the handling of the new PRO Steering system.
A thick, durable skid plate made from compression-molded UMHW polyethylene is standard, giving the underside of the Predator outstanding protection against punishing obstacles. For a great custom look, a rider can install a Pure Polaris accessory aluminum plate (sold separately) right over the stock ride plate.
Far superior to the competition is a wide, race-ready chromolloy axle as standard equipment, as are braided stainless steel brake lines. They look great and won't flex like competitive brake lines, so a Predator rider enjoys superior brake feel and response. The radical silver bodywork gives the Predator 500 a futuristic, high-tech look. Polaris ATV dealers can help a rider customize that look with accessories from the Predator collection of Pure Polaris accessories. They are all designed specifically for the predator, and include items such as front and rear grab bars, saddle bags, cargo bags, suspension covers, and more. There's also a special Predator collection of Polaris riding gear and sportswear.
The Ride!
I loved the Predator. Speeding around the trails on the Capitol State Forest (Washington State), it proved to be an excellent trail bike. I even gave it a shot on the MX track, and from what I saw from the other riders who actually race MX, it looked to perform well. All the Handling, Suspension & Power claims were more than sales smoke and mirrors. The power band seemed to allow you to lug the motor within reason with a predictable stall point and then hit it, pulling through with plenty of revs, which is very important on the trails. I went back into the woods, wishing I could get this baby to Sand Lake for a Dune test!
Sunday, November 22, 2009
Buy And Sell Cars For Profit Book
Click Here!
"Lazy Surfer Dude From California Reveals His Recession Proof Secrets For How You Can Make $300 To $3000 PROFIT In As Little As 2 Hours Buying And Selling Used Cars From Home...Part-Time...Or Full-Time...With No Previous Mechanical Or Sales Experience...And He Calls His Techniques..."
Thursday, November 19, 2009
Suzuki M800 Marauder Service Manual
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Suzuki Boulevard M50 motorcycle VZ800 has been manufactured by Suzuki Motor Corporation from the year 2005 to the present. In 2005, Suzuki re-branded the Marauder as the Boulevard M50 in the USA. In other markets the VZ800 is branded as the M800 Marauder. While nearly every component remained the same, the Boulevard series offers fuel injection rather of a carburetor. The engine is a liquid cooled 45 degree 803cc V-twin. The transmission is 5 speed, with transfer of power to the rear wheel accomplished via shaft drive.
Tuesday, November 17, 2009
Mazda MX3 Workshop Manual
Although this manual was written for the 1995
models it may cover years 1992, 1993, 1994, 1996, 1997, 1998
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models it may cover years 1992, 1993, 1994, 1996, 1997, 1998
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The Mazda MX3 is a production of Mazda at its best. The early nineties saw Mazda launching the MX-3, the RX-7 twin turbo and the evergreen MX-5. These drivers cars were loved by their owners and are much sought-after on the used market. The MX3 carried on where the sorely-missed original Honda CRX left off, bridging the generation gap between the little Honda and cars like the Vauxhall Tigra and Ford Puma.
Available in two guises, a 1.6-litre four-cylinder and the fascinating 1.8-litre V6, the MX-3 lasted for seven years and, like the RX7 model, has yet to be exchanged. When the MX-3s successor does arrive, perhaps then history will remember the little Mazda for what it was: a sweet-handling, technologically innovative baby coupe.
The two models of the MX-3 range are so different as to be almost like two different cars. The 1.6i is a sedate performer in automatic guise, although the manual car is a fair bit zippier. The 1.
8i boasts a great deal more driver appeal, with bigger wheels, tyres and uprated suspension. The little V6 revs smoothly and with a sporty exhaust note. The driving position is very good, although the interior is cramped. Adults will have to squeeze sideways on the rear bench where headroom is similarly restricted.
Despite this, the MX-3 does have a practical side, with a large, if somewhat shallow, rear-loading bay. The view from the drivers seat is of generic Japanese plastic. Lots of it. The high-backed seats offer good support, but the long doors make reaching the seatbelts awkward.
The MX-3 is fitted with possibly the worlds most annoying warning chime system, informing you when a door is open, when the lights are on and so on. It also has a very meagre reserve on the fuel tank. When the light goes on you have just fifteen miles before the fuel runs out. Equipment levels are reasonably good, with even the base model boasting an electric steel sunroof, tinted glass, electric windows and central locking.
The 1.8i looked more purposeful with its factory fitted rear spoiler, alloy wheels, twin exhausts and deep front spoiler. As long as you are aware that the 1.6i is not overtly sporty and the 1.
8i whilst not particularly quick is fun to drive, you wont go far wrong.
Used Mazda MX-3s are relatively common, and you can afford to shop around to find one you want. The automatic 1.6i model can be found starting from £1,200 for a 1991 J-registered car, whilst a 1996 P plate example will be around £3,125. Prices for the 1.
6i manual models are approximately £100 less than the automatic, with a fair opening price for a 1996 P-registered car being £3,050. The more desirable 1.8i starts at around £1,300 for a 1991 car, rising to £1,800 for a 1996 N-plate model. The last of these V6 cars is a 1998 R-registered example, worth around £3,000.
Insurance is Group 13 for the 1.6i cars and Group 15 for the 1.8i.
The MX-3 suffers from the usual Mazda failing of insubstantial plastics qualities. This is where the MX-3 shows its age worst. In terms of driving, a well-looked after MX-3 still feels modern, but the standards of fit and finish inside are now eclipsed even by bargain Korean offerings. The 1.
8i V6 should be especially carefully inspected, as it may well have led a harder life than the relatively sedate 1.6i model. Check the front tyres for wear and also check the suspension. Standard fit shock absorbers werent too durable and soon give the automobile a slightly baggy feeling when cornering on a bumpy surface.
The manual gearbox is on the whole good, but try engaging and pulling away in second gear to check the synchromesh isnt failing. Have a look under the automobile to assess the condition of the exhaust, as a replacement isnt cheap. The 1.8-litre engine is a complex unit and needs expert tender loving care.
The fuel injection system is known to go haywire, running too rich and then too lean with little warning, especially if the automobile is run out of fuel on a regular basis. The meagre nature of the reserve tank, with just fifteen miles or so before the fuel runs dry, makes this a distinct possibility. If neglected, big bills could be around the corner. The 1.
6i is a more utilitarian motor and is quite happy with big miles. Mazda have a good reputation for reliability and a properly looked-after MX-3 should be no exception.
(approx. based on 1.6 manual) The MX-3 is a reasonably cheap automobile to buy and if that raises suspicion youd be right. There has to be a catch and its in the price of parts.
A blowing exhaust system will blow around £600 from your exhausted current account. A new clutch assembly is a more reasonable £130, while a new radiator is around £220. An alternator is a slightly depressing £310, and a dead starter motor will start you looking for ways to dredge up around £135. One of those teardrop-shaped headlamps will have you crying on the shoulder of your local Mazda dealer as he gleefully relieves you of around £165.
A tale of Jekyll and Hyde. The 1.6i is a sweet, but sedate little runner, happiest when doing the undemanding things like travelling to the shops or gentle cruising. With such a benign little automobile, road rage is all but impossible; the Mazda is too laid back to raise the pulse.
0-60 in 10.5 isnt slow, but it feels cruel to subject such a gentle-natured automobile to such a merciless thrashing. The 1.8i on the other hand is not particularly quick, but makes all the right noises.
Its the sort of automobile that will make you feel like a back-road driving hero until that point when youre overtaken by a clapped-out Bedford Astramax on remould tyres. Theres a genuinely exotic feel to the engine response, and a well-looked after example should feel tight and competent when cornering. Traction from the front tyres is excellent and performance feels a lot better than it actually is. Whilst 0-60mph in 8.
5 seconds is as quick as an MGF, the MX-3 somehow feels more exciting, the tiny pistons giving the engine a delightfully light feel through the throttle.
The Mazda MX-3 is a car which sold well in the UK but has been largely forgotten, being born as it was just as the hot hatch trend waned and before todays generation of small coupes drew breath. Its no longer with us, but that shouldnt be an excuse not to track a good used one down. The 1.6i is fine if you are just sold on the MX-3s cute looks, but the 1.
8i is the model to go for if you enjoy driving. Its something with a little splash of exotic engineering, something that was conjured up in a moment of marketing madness. As long as youre prepared to look after it and can forgive the dowdy interior, its a fantastic little car. Buy the newest you can afford and you may have an outside wager on a future classic in your garage.
Mazda MX3 Service ManualAvailable in two guises, a 1.6-litre four-cylinder and the fascinating 1.8-litre V6, the MX-3 lasted for seven years and, like the RX7 model, has yet to be exchanged. When the MX-3s successor does arrive, perhaps then history will remember the little Mazda for what it was: a sweet-handling, technologically innovative baby coupe.
The two models of the MX-3 range are so different as to be almost like two different cars. The 1.6i is a sedate performer in automatic guise, although the manual car is a fair bit zippier. The 1.
8i boasts a great deal more driver appeal, with bigger wheels, tyres and uprated suspension. The little V6 revs smoothly and with a sporty exhaust note. The driving position is very good, although the interior is cramped. Adults will have to squeeze sideways on the rear bench where headroom is similarly restricted.
Despite this, the MX-3 does have a practical side, with a large, if somewhat shallow, rear-loading bay. The view from the drivers seat is of generic Japanese plastic. Lots of it. The high-backed seats offer good support, but the long doors make reaching the seatbelts awkward.
The MX-3 is fitted with possibly the worlds most annoying warning chime system, informing you when a door is open, when the lights are on and so on. It also has a very meagre reserve on the fuel tank. When the light goes on you have just fifteen miles before the fuel runs out. Equipment levels are reasonably good, with even the base model boasting an electric steel sunroof, tinted glass, electric windows and central locking.
The 1.8i looked more purposeful with its factory fitted rear spoiler, alloy wheels, twin exhausts and deep front spoiler. As long as you are aware that the 1.6i is not overtly sporty and the 1.
8i whilst not particularly quick is fun to drive, you wont go far wrong.
Used Mazda MX-3s are relatively common, and you can afford to shop around to find one you want. The automatic 1.6i model can be found starting from £1,200 for a 1991 J-registered car, whilst a 1996 P plate example will be around £3,125. Prices for the 1.
6i manual models are approximately £100 less than the automatic, with a fair opening price for a 1996 P-registered car being £3,050. The more desirable 1.8i starts at around £1,300 for a 1991 car, rising to £1,800 for a 1996 N-plate model. The last of these V6 cars is a 1998 R-registered example, worth around £3,000.
Insurance is Group 13 for the 1.6i cars and Group 15 for the 1.8i.
The MX-3 suffers from the usual Mazda failing of insubstantial plastics qualities. This is where the MX-3 shows its age worst. In terms of driving, a well-looked after MX-3 still feels modern, but the standards of fit and finish inside are now eclipsed even by bargain Korean offerings. The 1.
8i V6 should be especially carefully inspected, as it may well have led a harder life than the relatively sedate 1.6i model. Check the front tyres for wear and also check the suspension. Standard fit shock absorbers werent too durable and soon give the automobile a slightly baggy feeling when cornering on a bumpy surface.
The manual gearbox is on the whole good, but try engaging and pulling away in second gear to check the synchromesh isnt failing. Have a look under the automobile to assess the condition of the exhaust, as a replacement isnt cheap. The 1.8-litre engine is a complex unit and needs expert tender loving care.
The fuel injection system is known to go haywire, running too rich and then too lean with little warning, especially if the automobile is run out of fuel on a regular basis. The meagre nature of the reserve tank, with just fifteen miles or so before the fuel runs dry, makes this a distinct possibility. If neglected, big bills could be around the corner. The 1.
6i is a more utilitarian motor and is quite happy with big miles. Mazda have a good reputation for reliability and a properly looked-after MX-3 should be no exception.
(approx. based on 1.6 manual) The MX-3 is a reasonably cheap automobile to buy and if that raises suspicion youd be right. There has to be a catch and its in the price of parts.
A blowing exhaust system will blow around £600 from your exhausted current account. A new clutch assembly is a more reasonable £130, while a new radiator is around £220. An alternator is a slightly depressing £310, and a dead starter motor will start you looking for ways to dredge up around £135. One of those teardrop-shaped headlamps will have you crying on the shoulder of your local Mazda dealer as he gleefully relieves you of around £165.
A tale of Jekyll and Hyde. The 1.6i is a sweet, but sedate little runner, happiest when doing the undemanding things like travelling to the shops or gentle cruising. With such a benign little automobile, road rage is all but impossible; the Mazda is too laid back to raise the pulse.
0-60 in 10.5 isnt slow, but it feels cruel to subject such a gentle-natured automobile to such a merciless thrashing. The 1.8i on the other hand is not particularly quick, but makes all the right noises.
Its the sort of automobile that will make you feel like a back-road driving hero until that point when youre overtaken by a clapped-out Bedford Astramax on remould tyres. Theres a genuinely exotic feel to the engine response, and a well-looked after example should feel tight and competent when cornering. Traction from the front tyres is excellent and performance feels a lot better than it actually is. Whilst 0-60mph in 8.
5 seconds is as quick as an MGF, the MX-3 somehow feels more exciting, the tiny pistons giving the engine a delightfully light feel through the throttle.
The Mazda MX-3 is a car which sold well in the UK but has been largely forgotten, being born as it was just as the hot hatch trend waned and before todays generation of small coupes drew breath. Its no longer with us, but that shouldnt be an excuse not to track a good used one down. The 1.6i is fine if you are just sold on the MX-3s cute looks, but the 1.
8i is the model to go for if you enjoy driving. Its something with a little splash of exotic engineering, something that was conjured up in a moment of marketing madness. As long as youre prepared to look after it and can forgive the dowdy interior, its a fantastic little car. Buy the newest you can afford and you may have an outside wager on a future classic in your garage.
Email manuals@live.co.uk if any problems with download
Monday, November 16, 2009
Honda VT600C 1994 Service Manual
Honda VT600C 1994 Service Manual 
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Honda VT600C 1994 Service Manual
http://hondaservicemanual.blogspot.com/2009/11/honda-vt600c-1994-service-manual.html
Email manuals@live.co.uk if any problems with download
Honda VT600C 1994 Service Manual
Honda VT600C 1994 Service Manual DOWNLOAD
Honda VT600C 1994 Service Manual
http://hondaservicemanual.blogspot.com/2009/11/honda-vt600c-1994-service-manual.html
Email manuals@live.co.uk if any problems with download
Honda VT600C 1993 Service Manual
DOWNLOAD
Honda VT600C 1993 Service Manual
http://hondaservicemanual.blogspot.com/2009/11/honda-vt600c-1993-service-manual.html
Email manuals@live.co.uk if any problems with download
A Couple Of entry-level customs can boast as many big-bike features as Honda's VLX. Just like its larger stable companions, VLX is powered by a 52-degree V-twin engine. And like the big boys, VLX boasts three-valve cylinder heads for maximum power and twin spark plugs in each combustion chamber
for maximum efficiency.
VLX also has the lowest seat height of any of our cruisers for both a comfortable riding position and easy flat-footed stops. Then there's VLX's unique 'hardtail' rear suspension that emulates the 'rigid' look of custom choppers. But thanks to its hidden Monoshock design and seven position preload adjustment, there's 90mm of plush suspension travel.
The Honda Shadow VLX. Light on the wallet. Heavy on the features. - Honda
The Shadow cruiser line (VT500/VT600/VT700/VT750/VT800) contains some of the most reliable motorcycles manufactured in the past couple of decades. IGM especially recommeds the 1986-87 VT700 Shadows, which combine striking looks and genuine comfort with the low maintenance of shaft drive and hydraulically-adjusted valves. In IGM's opinion, this model makes a better all-around motorcycle than any of the new mid-sized cruisers. The 1988 VT800 looks much the same as the VT700, but it only comes with a four-speed transmission, detracting from its versatility. - IGM
MBG Says: (Rating 7/10) The VLX is low, light, easy to ride and won't intimidate anyone. The problem is that the same, and more can be said of its big brother, the ACE 750. Such as: more generous dimensions, a more popular classic look and especially a much better engine. All this, for a nearly identical price. Thus, unless one is terrified by higher weight and power, the 750 is clearly a better buy.
UMG Says: Shadow's extreme custom based on the VT500, which is at least tough and in this mild state full of torque. Handles okay up to 70mph and the finish lasts for a couple of British winters. Also Jap market 400cc version, some grey's only has 30 horses, lacks the low end grunt of the 600.
UBG Says: It’s Hardly Davidson, but good enough. Fake hard-tail hides modern monoshock and the engine came straight from the Transalp. Fuel tank grew in ’93, which is also when the Shadow name attached itself. seat height and easy handling make this a real rival for the 535 Virago.
£850 to £2950
IGM Says (Best Buy, Best First Bike): The small Shadows are maneuverable and fairly comforatble bikes, with roomy riding positions. With a windshield and some saddlebags, you can even tour on them. The VLX is no exception.
The VT600C 1993 Shadow VLX was sold in 1993 and was available in one color: Black. The serial number began JH2PC210*PM400001.
for maximum efficiency.
VLX also has the lowest seat height of any of our cruisers for both a comfortable riding position and easy flat-footed stops. Then there's VLX's unique 'hardtail' rear suspension that emulates the 'rigid' look of custom choppers. But thanks to its hidden Monoshock design and seven position preload adjustment, there's 90mm of plush suspension travel.
The Honda Shadow VLX. Light on the wallet. Heavy on the features. - Honda
The Shadow cruiser line (VT500/VT600/VT700/VT750/VT800) contains some of the most reliable motorcycles manufactured in the past couple of decades. IGM especially recommeds the 1986-87 VT700 Shadows, which combine striking looks and genuine comfort with the low maintenance of shaft drive and hydraulically-adjusted valves. In IGM's opinion, this model makes a better all-around motorcycle than any of the new mid-sized cruisers. The 1988 VT800 looks much the same as the VT700, but it only comes with a four-speed transmission, detracting from its versatility. - IGM
MBG Says: (Rating 7/10) The VLX is low, light, easy to ride and won't intimidate anyone. The problem is that the same, and more can be said of its big brother, the ACE 750. Such as: more generous dimensions, a more popular classic look and especially a much better engine. All this, for a nearly identical price. Thus, unless one is terrified by higher weight and power, the 750 is clearly a better buy.
UMG Says: Shadow's extreme custom based on the VT500, which is at least tough and in this mild state full of torque. Handles okay up to 70mph and the finish lasts for a couple of British winters. Also Jap market 400cc version, some grey's only has 30 horses, lacks the low end grunt of the 600.
UBG Says: It’s Hardly Davidson, but good enough. Fake hard-tail hides modern monoshock and the engine came straight from the Transalp. Fuel tank grew in ’93, which is also when the Shadow name attached itself. seat height and easy handling make this a real rival for the 535 Virago.
£850 to £2950
IGM Says (Best Buy, Best First Bike): The small Shadows are maneuverable and fairly comforatble bikes, with roomy riding positions. With a windshield and some saddlebags, you can even tour on them. The VLX is no exception.
The VT600C 1993 Shadow VLX was sold in 1993 and was available in one color: Black. The serial number began JH2PC210*PM400001.
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